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If a tighter inspection plan is needed by clients for special cases where stricter controls are required on the product, level III shall be applied.  Level III generally means that a larger sample size will be check, and of which a smaller proportion is allowed to be defective.

Level S3 is a special level used in conjunction with Levels I, II and III.  Level S3 is used for field tests and performance measurements where it would not be practical to perform such tests on larger sample sizes

 

Initial production check (IPC)

Inspection at the early stage of production when the first match of articles has been produced in order to ascertain conformity to basic product specifications.

Deviations are notified for correction. If deviations are difficult to describe in writing and their acceptance/ rejection depend on subjective evaluation representative samples (s) should be sent urgently to the clients for their decision.

If laboratory tests are required, tests samples are drawn as early as possible provided they fairly are said to representative of the production batch preceding or following sample drawing. Quality inspections for this stage:

a)    Lab testing for quality and performance

b)    Fabrics and findings

c)     Design prototypes

d)    Product assemblies and components

e)    Conformance to specifications

f)      Evaluations of customer requests

IPC and DUPRO are most important: basic deviations from reference – samples and/or specifications must be detected at this stage. Production delays must also be reported.

 

During production check (DUPRO):

Mid–inspection to ascertain that initial discrepancies have been rectified and to check the average quality standard of the available production. At this stage finished products shall be checked against buyer’s specification and prototype sample. Deviations shall be identified and brought out for correction. Inspection during production is carried out to check and verify that the initial discrepancies have been rectified and to ensure the average quality standards of production runs. At this stage of inspection involves:

 

a)    To determine whether products have been made according to specifications / if meet standards / if products are acceptable.

b)    100% inspection of finished goods

c)     Statistical quality control

d)    Proportion and type of defects in the total production lot.

e)    Trendz uses acceptance sampling based on sampling plans (single, double, and multiple).

f)      Monitoring the garment assembly process.

g)    Finished garment evaluation

h)    Mill flaw and general repair. Make a separate log for sampling and identify inefficient operators. Verbal, written and then termination of operators shall be followed in failing to prove their quality of workmanships.

 

 

Final random inspection (FRI):

At his stage, random inspection is carried out when the total 90% consignment is packed and ready for shipment. Inspection is performed according to the international inspection standards. The detailed physical inspection of the sample selected at random is based on specifications of the buyers and it covers the criteria such as design/style, accessories, measurements, packing etc. The quality checks for FRI are as follow:

a)    Quality assurance while goods are stored at plants, and distribution centers.

b)    Quality audits to determine the defect level of the output.

c)     Auditing, monitoring, and reporting quality of finished goods, packing, and shipping in distribution centers.

d)    Analysis of returned merchandise by customers.

 

Status reporting during IPC, DUPRO, FRI

As part of the above stages (IPC/ DUPRO/ FRI) the execution of the order according to the delivery schedule will be monitored and the client will be advised problems through formal reporting.

Based on the contractual delivery date the inspections are be scheduled provisionally upon reception of the inspection order. Reporting of delays anticipated is an integral part of our full service and is important to client.

*Disclaimer: Client must specify inspection requirements, third party inspection company, AQL and code/standard before placing orders in order to maintain expected quality level and refund.

Our Quality Assurance manual is also available on request, please email to qc@trendzgroup.com for the manual or any question regarding our quality plan.

 

Trendz International (A subsidiary company of Trendz Group) Quality Assurance Manual Rev.# Issued on Reviewed by Checked by 1 March 03, 2007 YM KAJ 0 January 15, 2007 MNJ KAJ Quality Assurance Manual Rev.1 Trendz International www.trendzgroup.com Canada Office: 134, Becker Cres, Fort McMurray, AB, T9K 1M7 Canada, e-mail: admin@trendzgroup.com, Tel: +1-780-715-5033, Fax: +1-803-948-0264 (toll free) Bangladesh Office: Plot# 17, Road# 11, Sector# 12, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh, Phone: 01913390076, e-mail: ed@trendzgroup.com Tel : +880-666-804-4550, 880-1913-390076, Fax:+880-666-804-4551 TABLE OF CONTENTS Contents Page # Section 1: Introduction 6 1.1 General 6 1.2 Concepts of Quality Assurance (QA) 7 1.3 Concept of Quality Control (QC): 7 1.4 Quality Management teams 8 1.5 Quality organization chart 8 Section 2: Cost of Quality Program 10 2.1 Costs and benefit of quality program 10 2.2 Costing in quality materials sourcing 10 Section 3: Sampling and Stages of assuring quality 12 3.1 Preproduction quality assurance 1 3.2 Stages of Inspection 12 3.2.1 Initial Production Check (IPC) 12 3.2.2 During production check (DUPRO) 13 3.2.3 Final random inspection (FRI) 14 3.3 Inspection during loading (IDL) 14 3.4 Status reporting during IPC, DUPRO, FRI 14 Section 4: Quality Requirements 15 4.1 General 15 4.2 Quality requirements in Merchandizing 15 4.2.1 Role of Merchandisers 15 4.2.2 Merchandisers requirement to clients 17 4.2.3 Procedures followed by Merchandising/Sampling 18 4.3 Quality requirement in production 19 4.3.1 Production team of the factory 19 4.3.2 Role/ Responsibility of Factory production team 20 4.3.3 Procedures followed by Production 21 4.4 Quality Assurance Department 21 4.4.1 Fabric Quality Check 22 4.4.2 Trims Inspection 24 4.4.3 Cutting (Physical) Inspection 25 4.4.4 Cutting (Technical) Inspection 25 4.4.5 Stitching Inspection 25 4.4.6 Needle Checking 26 4.4.7 Washing & Finishing 26 4.4.8 Final Quality Inspection 27 Section 5: Acceptance Quality Level of defects 28 5.1 Concept of Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) 28 5.2 Defects and Defectives 28 Section 6: Inspection and Test reporting 30 6.1 Inspection Reports 30 6.1.1 Sample Matching 30 6.1.2 Workmanship 31 6.1.3 Measurements 31 6.1.4 Weight 31 6.1.5 Packing/ Assortment 31 6.1.6 Labeling 32 6.2 Chemical Test Report 32 Appendix A: Catalogue of defects I Appendix A1: Workmanship Defects I Appendix A2: Measurements Defects V Appendix A3: Material Defects VI Appendix A4: Seam defects VII Appendix A5: Defects of Optical characteristic IX Appendix A6: Special item Defects IX Appendix A7: Position of defects X Appendix B: Testing Procedures XI Section 1 Introduction 1.1 General: This manual is to outline Trendz’ procedures, process and systems to achieve quality products in order to meet or exceed requirements provided by clients. If no requirement is given by clients, Trendz will follow AQL and associated code/ standard as specified in this manual. This quality plan is not only limited to role of QA/QC team but also to merchandisers and production personnel. Trendz acts as a client of the factories to maintain the entire quality system. In case quality requirement of factories is more stringent than this manual, both can be followed. 1.2 Concept of Trendz’ Quality Quality is defined as a combination of the uniqueness or properties of a specific product which make a product usable. The extent to which a product successfully serves the purpose of the user during usage is called its “fitness for use”. Therefore the quality of all products may be described in terms of whether the products are fit for use or not. Fitness for use in the most widely used concept of quality and is determined by those features of a product that a user can recognize as beneficial. Fitness for use should be judged from the consumer’s point of view and not from either the manufacturer or sellers perspective. Trendz’ quality in garment products can be classified into two categories. One is from visual point of view and another is service ability of the product. The visual value can be judged through inspection while the service ability of the product can be determined through testing. It is obvious that without testing it is not possible to evaluate the hidden qualities of any product. In the age of cut throat competition, apparel buyers specify their quality requirements. In order to have customer satisfaction quality parameters should conform to specification. Our quality can be measured by comparing the product to other similar goods in the market place or by comparing the consistency of product’s intrinsic cues to the Client’s standards and specifications. It’s impossible to make each product like the previous one. Therefore, “Tolerances” are stated. Tolerances are fixed from the code/ standards and AQL. Defects can be defined which exceeds tolerances (or do not meet specifications) • Critical defects- prevent usability or performance. • Major defects - may affect usability. • Minor defects- will not affect usability 1.3 Concepts of Trendz Quality Assurance (QA) Quality Assurance covers all activities from design/pattern, development, production, servicing and documentation. QA is a part and consistent pair of quality management proving fact-based external confidence to customers that a product meets or exceeds needs, expectations, and other requirements. QA/QC manager assures the existence and effectiveness of procedures that attempt to make sure - in advance - that the expected levels of quality will be reached. Any direction or order comes from Trendz’ QA/QC manager shall supersede/replace factory QC in order to maintain this manual. 1.4 Concept of Trendz Quality Control (QC): Quality Control (QC) is a system of routine technical activities, to measure and control the quality of the inventory as it is being developed. The QC system is designed to: (i) Provide routine and consistent checks to ensure integrity, correctness, and completeness; (ii) Identify and address errors and omissions; (iii) Document and record all QC activities. Regarding tolerance of defects of the products, decision taken by Trendz’ QCI inspectors shall supersede factory/ supplier’s QC or any production personnel’s decision (Cutting master, In-line supervisors, In-line checkers, Tailors, Helpers, Finishing in-charge, Thread clippers, Stain removing/ spotters, Washing master, Final checkers, Press man, Folding and Packing staff etc.) Factory QC or other production personnel can not compromise with this decision. 1.5 Quality Management teams Trendz’ quality management teams are divided in 3 groups 1. Quality groups: A division of Trendz who are Quality specialists work together with the factory QC and oversee production activities in regards to maintain quality. Third party inspection team (approved by Trendz or buyer) is also belongs to this group. 2. Merchandizing group: A group of technical personnel who work with factory merchandisers/ designer and production managers. Merchandising shall follow the order from initial developments, research that goes into manufacture the product until final dispatch. They receive regular updates, changes from the buyer directly or indirectly. 3. Teams of production workers: This team incorporated with factory production team guided and directed by our merchandising and quality control team to ensure quality system is being employed. 1.6 Quality organization chart As mentioned earlier Trendz works as buyers’ agent to comply buyers’ quality requirements. The quality org chart is established in such a way so our QA/QC and merchandisers can monitor/ inspect/ surveillance in every section of the factory and every stage of production process. Trendz QA/QC manager can directly and freely report to the president so that quality is not compromised in any cost with quantity. Fig. 1.1: Quality Organization Chart Section 2 Costs of Quality program The content of this Section is not related with quality plan or procedures, however to televise buyers the logic behind maintaining a quality plan. Trendz realizes increasing quality increases cost! However our policy is not to compromise quality with quantity. Trendz believes in long term relationship with their customers as low quality products can have: – Rework – Customer returns – Complaints – Ill will – Lost sales/ marketing 2.1 Costs and benefit of quality program • High quality, high cost factors that contribute to the cost of garment production (material costs + labor costs) • Costs are reduced when consistency increases: More desired products/ less defective products/ fewer products are saleable at regular price. • The cost of quality ranges from 10 to 35 % of product costs. o Inspection: 2 to 15 % of labor costs. o Scrap: 2 to 10 % of material costs. o Excess material made but not used: 0 to 5% of material costs. o Rework: 0 to 5% of labor and material costs. o Field service: 0 to 20 % of labor and material costs. 2.2 Costing in quality materials sourcing Sourcing is the determination of the most cost-efficient vendor of materials and/or production at a specified quality and service level. • The global textile complex • Producer goods and consumer goods • Producer goods are products or materials that are used in the production of other goods. (e.g. fiber, yarn, grey goods, etc.) • Consumer goods are end products • Integration in both producers and consumer goods market. • Mergers mean fewer firms in fabric production. Considering above factors Trendz will provide quotations to buyers accordingly to ensure an uninterrupted quality program is followed as per AQL/ specification/ standard and this quality manual. Section 3 Sampling and Stages of assuring quality 3.1 Sampling of Inspection Trendz Inspections are performed randomly selecting a sample size from the whole consignment. Results are classified as defective or non-defective with respect to given requirements and a type sample. The sampling plan is in line with MIL-STD-105E which is based on the mathematical theory of probability and provides a fair balance between the interests of the supplier and purchaser. In a given lot or consignment it specifies the number of units to be inspected and the maximum number of defectives allowed in that sample. There are several levels of inspections appropriate to the different stages of production at which an inspection may take place. The level as well as the consignment size will determine the size of the sample to be randomly selected. 3.2 Stages of Inspection The levels used for the 3 pre-shipment inspections are as follows: 1. Initial Production Check (IPC) –Single Sampling Plan General Level I 2. During Production Check (DUPRO)–Single Sampling Plan General Level I 3. Final Random Inspection (FRI) – Single Sampling Plan General Level II If a tighter inspection plan is needed by clients for special cases where stricter controls are required on the product, level III shall be applied. Level III generally means that a larger sample size will be check, and of which a smaller proportion is allowed to be defective. Level S3 is a special level used in conjunction with Levels I, II and III. Level S3 is used for field tests and performance measurements where it would not be practical to perform such tests on larger sample sizes 3.2.1 Initial production check (IPC) Inspection at the early stage of production when the first match of articles has been produced in order to ascertain conformity to basic product specifications. Deviations are notified for correction. If deviations are difficult to describe in writing and their acceptance/ rejection depend on subjective evaluation representative samples (s) should be sent urgently to the clients for their decision. If laboratory tests are required, tests samples should be drawn as early as possible provided they fairly are said to representative of the production batch preceding or following sample drawing. Quality inspections for this stage: a) Lab testing for quality and performance b) Fabrics and findings c) Design prototypes d) Product assemblies and components e) Conformance to specifications f) Evaluations of customer requests IPC and DUPRO are most important: basic deviations from reference – samples and/or specifications must be detected at this stage. Production delays must also be reported. 3.2.2 During production check (DUPRO): Mid–inspection to ascertain that initial discrepancies have been rectified and to check the average quality standard of the available production. At this stage finished products shall be checked against buyer’s specification and prototype sample. Deviations shall be identified and brought out for correction. Inspection during production is carried out to check and verify that the initial discrepancies have been rectified and to ensure the average quality standards of production runs. At this stage of inspection involves: a) To determine whether products have been made according to specifications / if meet standards / if products are acceptable. b) 100% inspection of finished goods c) Statistical quality control d) Proportion and type of defects in the total production lot. e) Trendz uses acceptance sampling based on sampling plans (single, double, and multiple). f) Monitoring the garment assembly process. g) Finished garment evaluation h) Mill flaw and general repair. Make a separate log for sampling and identify inefficient operators. Verbal, written and then termination of operators shall be followed in failing to prove their quality of workmanships. 3.2.3 Final random inspection (FRI): At his stage, random inspection is carried out when the total 90% consignment is packed and ready for shipment. Inspection is performed according to the international inspection standards. The detailed physical inspection of the sample selected at random is based on specifications of the buyers and it covers the criteria such as design/style, accessories, measurements, packing etc. The quality checks for FRI are as follow: a) Quality assurance while goods are stored at plants, and distribution centers. b) Quality audits to determine the defect level of the output. c) Auditing, monitoring, and reporting quality of finished goods, packing, and shipping in distribution centers. d) Analysis of returned merchandise by customers. 3.3 Inspection during loading (IDL): Trendz Inspectors will perform their inspections during loading and unloading of products. 3.4 Status reporting during IPC, DUPRO, FRI As part of the above stages (IPC/ DUPRO/ FRI) the execution of the order according to the delivery schedule will be monitored and the client will be advised problems through formal reporting. Based on the contractual delivery date the inspection(s) should be scheduled provisionally upon reception of the inspection order. Reporting of delays anticipated is an integral part of our full service and is important to clients. Section 4 Quality Role & Requirements of Trendz personnel 4.1 General: As mentioned in early Sections Trendz Quality assurance and control system is not limited only within QA/QC but also a perfect coordination of merchandizing, production and quality department. Figure 4.1: A perfect coordination of 3 departments To obtain a perfect co-ordination of these three teams, roles and responsibilities of above three department personnel will be briefed in this Section. A weekly co-ordination meeting is conducted for quality and production. Following persons will be invited to present at the time a) Trendz President and/or Executive director b) Trendz QA manager c) Trendz merchandiser(s) d) Factory Director (optional) e) Factory Production manager f) Factory finishing in-charge g) Factory merchandiser(s) h) Factory pattern maker (optional) i) Factory QC Manager In addition to above personnel other factory individuals representing their departments could be invited. Any quality or production issue raised in the meeting will be closed out by factory within a deadline given by Trendz. Also production feasible ways are discussed mutually. Meeting minutes shall be recoded and forwarded to the buyer weekly basis. 4.2 Quality requirements in Merchandizing 4.2.1 Role of Merchandisers Trendz’ merchandisers shall play a key role to comply quality requirements. The merchandizing department directly deals with the buyer; therefore they play a very pivotal role for the factory. Merchandisers act as a buyer representative to the factory. Role of Merchandising shall follow the order from initial developments, research that goes into manufacture the product until final dispatch. They receive regular updates, changes from the buyer directly or indirectly. The department shall ensure this information is passed efficiently and effectively to the related personnel of the factory. It’s the responsibility of merchandising department to make sure that the details passed on further are up to date as per buyer latest instructions. Pattern master shall make the patterns according to the style and grade in different sizes etc. The pattern master, merchandisers and QC shall work closely to ensure buyer’s samples are modified/ corrected as per new specification. Below is a list of functions that Trendz’ merchandisers shall follow: 1. Merchandiser shall negotiating prices with the buyers in such a way so that the price includes quality inspections, 2. Merchandisers shall follow the order status; give the buyers requirements of accessories/fabric for the order. 3. Trendz’ merchandisers shall make photo/proto samples, fit samples/size sets for the buyer, with close co-operation with pattern master till the buyer is satisfied with the fit and sample is sealed. The following form shall be filled up by merchandiser and a sketch has to be drawn as shown an example below. Figure: 4.1: Example of top sheet of the sample to be approved 4. Merchandisers shall take responsibility for timely approvals from the buyer, to avoid losses to buyer and factory 5. Trendz’ merchandisers will report regular updates to the buyer on status of production/sampling and QC reports from QC team. 6. They have to maintain a spreadsheet document with step-by-step developments for the order is prepared to ensure no quality check steps are missed. So that any delay in any process can reflect in the change of delivery date. 4.2.2 Requirements of Merchandisers to clients It is obvious that our merchandisers need full specifications from clients before Trendz can commence any dealing. Following specifications are minimum in addition to physical sample/ detail sketch: 1. Garment i. Fit ii. Construction 2. FABRICS i. Weight ii. Color details iii. Yarn Count iv. Fill v. Lining vi. Wash/Finish 3. Accessories i. Buttons ii. Zips iii. Cord/Draw-cord iv. Tape v. Velcro vi. Studs/Domes/Rivets vii. Badge/Embroidery viii. Collar ix. Pip/Feature Label x. Placement Print xi. Top-stitch Thread 4. Labeling i. Brand Label/size pip ii. Care/Content/Origin iii. Swing ticket 5. Packaging i. Hanger Pack ii. Hanger 4.2.3 Procedures followed by Merchandising/Sampling 1. Merchandisers has to be involved right from the development stage to ensure exact trims/accessories/fabric are ordered and purchased. 2. Once production is finalized a material order is made. Merchandisers shall ensure the style is the exact match to buyer satisfaction. Once the garment is qualified, it is sealed and the other sizes are graded. 3. The merchandising department gives relevant information to each department of Trendz’ selected factory in a green file . 4. The production receives a “material order” to know what has to be delivered. This document shall content a spec sheet of the style, a sealed sample of the style, a confirmation with signature of “production order”. 5. Similarly, finishing department gets information relevant to them while packing a particular style. The sealed sample given to production gets passed on to finishing after production. The “production order” given to finishing shall have all finishing details and packing instructions from the buyer. 4.3 Quality requirement in production The production department is not only a department, but a team of quality personnel. The leader of this team is a production manager. By production, it is not meant stitching only; But entire process of converting fabric to garments by maintaining quality. Trendz QA/QC and merchandiser shall direct the factory to ensure this manual is being followed. 4.3.1 Production team of the factory Factory selected by Trendz shall consist of following team members in production department. • Production Manager • Cutting master • In-line supervisors • In-line checkers • Tailors • Helpers • Finishing in-charge • Thread clippers • Stain removing/spotters • Washing master • Final checkers • Press man • Folding and Packing staff 4.3.2 Role/ Responsibility of Factory production team Production department is responsible for cutting, stitching, finishing and packing the goods as per buyer requirements and standards of quality. Trendz merchandisers and QA/QC manger shall provide continuous feed back, instruction to comply quality requirements. 1. The main role/goal of production team of the factory is to deliver buyers orders to meet Trendz or buyers quality specification. This quality can only be achieved if the systems are in place. The efforts of all the members are concentrated towards higher productivity and quality driven. 2. The production department of the factory has to plan the output and calculate depending on size of the order, the style of garment etc. as per Trendz’ merchandisers’ guidance and instruction. 3. QA/QC, merchandising and production shall perform their respective duties to complete an order. QA/QC monitor quality of products and merchandising provides the information related to the order. A lack of communication, misinterpretation usually costs the factory; therefore support of proper paperwork is essential. 4. Trendz requires a daily report of the production created by production manager of the factory. This report covers cutting of fabric per day, stitched output, stitching in process, and quantity of units in finishing. This report shall be checked and signed by Trendz merchandizing group and can be forwarded to buyer if requested. 5. Production passes on goods to finishing with internal challan to avoid confusion towards the end (shipment date). The stitching report and finishing report should tally the same amount passed on and received. In finishing, the appearance of the garment is enhanced. The garment is to be presentable and marketable. Garments are thoroughly checked by Trendz QC in addition to factory QC team for any rejection/alteration, the garment is ironed; price tickets/tags are attached, and then neatly packed in poly bags. Buyer shall provide full information on packing, such as flat/hanger pack, size ratio, and quantity per carton to be packed. The finishing department ensures quality, appearance of the garment and packing of the order to buyers’ standards/codes/ specifications. 4.3.3 Procedures followed by Production 1. Once production is handed over the “green file” from merchandiser, this file gives the production an entire picture of style includes the final changes sent by buyer (the cutting/packing ratio, the delivery dates etc.) 2. The sealed sample is given to production supervisors makes this sample available in the line, during production. The sample is shown to the tailors to teach quality requirements in stitching details. 3. Trendz further issues them for outsourcing, depending on style. This is either returned to stitching or finishing. If the goods are sent directly to finishing, then they are added in the finishing report. 4. Similarly, a stitching report made by factory production shall show cutting received, work in progress, pieces stitched, pieces given further to finishing. Trendz merchandiser will surveil these reports time to time basis. 5. Any confusion or issue raised in production must be discussed in weekly coordination meeting as mentioned in paragraph 4.1. 4.4 Quality Assurance Department Quality assurance department of Trendz works on improving the quality produced and monitor systems of functioning. The main role of this department is to ensure no quality issues shall be compromised with in production. The department consists of a quality manager and QA/QC personnel. Trendz quality department directs factory QC system and production. QA/QC inspections shall be done in 8 areas as mentioned in following paragraphs from 4.4.1 through 4.4.8. 4.4.1 Fabric Quality Check Fabric shall be checked 100% for various defects like: • Weaving defects • Holes • Printing / dyeing defects • Water / crease marks • Color variation • Width wise segregation • Skew / torque All fabrics shall be checked in the laboratory if required by the buyer. Laboratory tests can be performed by a buyer recognized third party or factory available laboratory. Following items shall be examined as per buyer’s request: • Count / construction • Shrinkage • Crocking (dry / wet) • Appearance after wash (Garment 45 min. Cycle machine wash) • CF to washing • CF to light • Tear strength • Tensile strength • Seam slippage In depth fabric testing can also be performed in laboratories by a third party or available lab in factory to meet code and standards. However Client has to confirm for such compliance before a quotation is requested from Trendz. The detail code requirement for fabric testing is as below. # Color Fastness Tests Test Method 1. Washing AATCC 61 / ISO 105 CO6 2. Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 3. Crocking / Rubbing AATCC 8 / ISO 105 X 12 4. Light AATCC 16E / ISO B02 5. Water AATCC / ISO105 EO1 6. Sea Water AATCC 106 7. Perspiration AATCC 15 / ISO 105 EO4 8. Chlorine Bleach AATCC 61 5A 9. Non Chlorine Bleach Chlorox-2 Method 10. Water Spotting AATCC 104 11. Actual Laundering AATCC 135 / ISO 5077 12. Hot Pressing AATCC 133 Table 4.1: Code Requirements in Color Fastness Test Composition and Analytical Tests Test Method 1. Fiber Analysis / Composition / Content AATCC 20A / ISO 1833 2. Formaldehyde JIS L 1041 / BS 6806 3. Dye Identification IS 4. Anti Rust Test AGEING METHOD 5. Nickel Free Test 94/27/EEC 6. PH Value AATCC 81 / ISO 3071 Table 4.2: Code Requirements Composition and Analytical Tests Construction Analysis Test Method 1. Yarn Counts ASTM D 1059 2. Fabric Weight (GSM) 3. Construction ASTM D 3775 4. Type Of Weave 5. Skewness And Bowing ASTM D 3882 6. Type Of Yarn / Whether Carded Or Combed Table 4.3: Code Requirements for Construction Analysis Strength / Durability Tests Test Method 1. Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 2. Seam Slippage / Strength ASTM D 1683/434 3. Tear Strength ASTM D 1424/ 2261 4. Stretch And Recovery Of Narrow Elastics LE- Method 5. Button / Snap Pull Strength In- House Method Table 4.4: Code Requirements for Strength and durability tests Dimensional Stability / Appearance Tests Test Method 1. Dimensional Stability To Washing AATCC 135/150 / ISO 5077/6330 2. Dimensional Stability To Dry Cleaning AATCC 158 3. Dimensional Stability To Steam Press BS 4323 / ISO 3005 4. Spirality / Skewing / Torque AATCC 179 5. Appearance After Washing AATCC 135 / 150 6. Appearance After Dry Cleaning AATCC 158 7. Durable Press Rating AATCC 124 / 143 Table 4.5: Code Requirements for Dimensional Stability/ Appearance Tests 4.4.2 Trims Inspection • All trims shall be checked for durability and performance and shall be ensure for compliance with care instructions. • All trims shall be attached correctly using proper attachment methods. • Trim materials shall be checked to perform consistently with the base fabric performance with no differential shrinkage. • Join seams shall be kept neat and raw edges shall be removed. • Ribbon ends shall be heat-sealed. • Lace panels shall be paired / matched. • Pre-shrunk elastic is always used for respective styles. 4.4.3 Cutting (Physical) Inspection • CAD markers or equivalent shall be set as per ratio required and width attained. • Layering will be done on the basis of fabric weight / GSM and size / ratio. • Dyelot numbers shall be given on each layer cut, to keep track of lots cut at the packing stage, if needed. • Each dyelot is to be cut in ratio to maintain color consistency, when the goods finally reach the rack. • Each layer cut, is checked for cutting consistency and records shall be maintained. 4.4.4 Cutting (Technical) Inspection • All component parts of the garment shall be laid parallel to the warp (length) of fabric unless style warrants others positioning of parts. • All component parts of a garment shall be laid in one general area and shall be shade controlled. • Each layer edge shall be checked for unacceptable skew / torque. • All plaids, horizontal stripes and vertical stripes shall be matched as per the requirement of Buyer. • Lightweight fabrics or off grain fabric use to relax & make it tension free to prevent problems in stitching. • Any block or placement print shall be cut individually to ensure correct print appearance on the garment. 4.4.5 Stitching Inspection • Time and motion study shall be done before any style commencement • In-line quality check shall be maintained at each level and the same shall be followed religiously with regard to core aspects of stitching: - Needles - Threads - Seams 4.4.6 Needle Checking • Trendz follows the broken needle policy with utmost importance in zero tolerance zones. • Needles shall be checked and replaced regularly in order to avoid needle damage and over heating. • Needles shall be compatible with the fabric and thread to avoid seam quality problems. • Trendz shall ensure through reporting that compatible constructed fabrics shall be made with corresponding ball point/sharp point needles. 4.4.7 Washing & Finishing • Three garments of each size and of each dye-lot of a particular color shall be run through a 45 min. machine wash cycle and thereafter checked for any washing discrepancy. • Each dye-lot is run through a 15 min. washing cycle under supervision of washing technician. • All the garments shall be given sufficient time to relax and dry thoroughly prior to packing. • Thread cutting, ironing, spotting and others finishing processes shall be done under strict quality control measures. • Each finishing process is done under the supervision of a Trendz QC and all the garments go through 100% quality check. • All the garments shall be passed through a metal detecting machine. • 100% garments shall be checked for: a) Correct labeling, hangtag positioning and carton marking b) Out of specs garments shall be corrected or removed. c) Correct ratio packing d) Same dyelots within carton. e) Quantity check in each carton as per the packing instruction. 4.4.8 Final Quality Inspection • All the packed garments shall be inspected 2.5 AQL quality audit before forwarding goods to the buyer. • Records shall be maintained for all these internal inspections. • A report shall be made every alternate day for the order in process, the garments shall be picked up from different lots randomly checked (Measurements, construction, accessories/label attachment, any specific detailing as per style sheet) • After finishing stage, the garments shall be 100% checked before packing. The goods shall be received from the production department against a challan . Internal challan is a confirmation of number of pieces passed on from production to finishing, to monitor movement of pieces. • Finishing has two stages of checking, general and final checking. After pieces shall be received in finishing, the piece is checked before moving forward. Then once the piece is thread clipped, washed or dry cleaned, ironed, it is checked once more (final check) before folding and packing. Section 5 Acceptance Quality Level of defects 5.1 Concept of Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) As per code MIL-STD-105E, ISO 2859-1 (1999), the acceptable level (AQL) is defined as the maximum percent defective (or the maximum number of defects per hundred units) that, for purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process average. The sampling plans most frequently used by the department of Defense are based on the AQL. As per ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2003 the AQL is the quality level that is the worst tolerable process average when a continuing series of lots is submitted for acceptance sampling. The concept of AQL only applies when an acceptance sampling scheme with rules for switching between normal, tightened and reduced inspection and discontinuance of sampling inspection is used. These rules are designed to encourage suppliers to have process averages consistently better than the AQL. If suppliers fail to do so, there is a high probability of being switched from normal inspection to tightened inspection where lot acceptance becomes more difficult. Once on tightened inspection, unless corrective action is taken to improve product quality, it is very likely that the rule requiring discontinuance of sampling inspection will be invoked. Although individual lots with quality as bad as the AQL can be accepted with fairly high probability, the designation of an AQL does not suggest that this is necessarily a desirable quality level. The AQL is a parameter of the sampling scheme and should not be confused with a process average which describes the operating level of a manufacturing process. It is expected that the product quality level will be less than the AQL to avoid excessive non accepted lots. The AQL values are defined as percent nonconforming or defects or nonconformities per hundred units. 5.2 Defects and Defectives A defect is any nonconformance of the unit of product with the specified requirements. A defective is a unit of product which contains one or more defects. Failure to meet requirements with respect to quality characteristics are usually described in terms of defects or defectives. Critical - A critical defect is on that judgment and experience indicate is likely to: a. Result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining, or depending upon the products; or b. Prevent performance of the tactical function of a major end item. A critical defective is a unit of product that contains one or more critical defects. Major - A major defect is one, other than critical, that is likely to result in failure, or to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. A major defective is a unit of product that contains one or more major defects. Minor - A minor defect is one that is not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose, or is a departure from established standards having little bearing on the effective use or operation of the unit of product. A Minor defective is a unit of product that contains one or more defects. The number of Critical, Major and Minor defective units allowed are controlled by the Acceptable Quality Level. AQL is a number that determines the maximum number of allowable defective units in a sample. As mentioned, the consignment size and inspection level determines the size of the sample, although for very small or very large consignment the AQL can also have an influence on the size of the sample. The AQL should be agreed upon between the buyer and Trendz, prior to manufacture or delivery of the product. The following AQLs (Table 5.1) are applied by Trendz unless otherwise instructed by the client. Degree of Defects High Volume Order (order more than 50,000 units) Low Volume Order (order less than 50,000 units) Critical Defects AQL 0 AQL 0 Major Defects AQL 1.5 AQL 2.5 Minor Defects AQL 2.5 AQL 4.0 Table 5.1: Trendz’ AQL numbers Section 6 Inspection and Test reporting 6.1 Inspection Reports Inspection reporting shall be performed by QC inspectors with supervision of Trendz QA manager. Trendz QC reports shall supersede any reporting made by factory QC. Reporting contains 6 categories that will be approved separately from each other. Appendix ‘A1’ to ‘A7’ with conjunction of Appendix ‘B’ must be followed while reporting each category “PASS” or “FAIL”. 6.1.1 Sample Matching Trendz inspectors will note all discrepancies of the already produced goods and they will approve reference sample. The QC inspector must use the catalogue of defects to verify the grade of discrepancies. Examples: Collar form and collar stand Closing direction Quantity of accessories Position of accessories Size/type of accessories; button Size/type of accessories ; press button Size/type of accessories ; zipper Quantity of pocket Size of pocket Form of pocket Seam course Thread color Yarn count Color shading ; shell fabric Color shading ; lining Collar stability Waistband interlining Color shading from piece to piece Workmanship of collar not kept The category “sample matching” shows “FAIL”, if there is a color shading from piece to piece in shell fabric rated with mark ≤3-4 according to code AATCC gray scale. Up to mark 4 color shading is “PASS”. 6.1.2 Workmanship Please see Appendix A1 6.1.3 Measurements Measurements will be checked at 4 samples each style and each size according to the approved measurement charts. It is “FAIL”, if the measurements in one size(each style) are 4 times out of tolerance. 6.1.4 Weight It is “FAIL”, if there are weight differences of ≥ 5% at more than 4 from 10 inspected pieces. 6.1.5 Packing/ Assortment 5 sales packaging of 35 cartons (10 selling units) are torn: “PASS” because of < 3%. Examples: care label ( material composition) is missing (according to German textile labeling law) no declaration of the country of origin no declaration of supplier on packaging no/wrong size labeling Care label instructions are missing Defective polybags/ missing label “ Green Dot” No warning notice on polybags Visual differences to packaging requirements Packing unit is different to requested amount Differences between content and declaration on photo cardboard Sales packaging is damaged/ pressed. 6.1.6 Labeling As per buyer’s physical sample or detail specification. 6.2 Chemical Test Report The quality of raw materials and accessories shall be tested by the authorized testing company , according to approved testing procedures. Appendix A Catalogue of defects Critical defect : legal requirements and regulations are affected or user could risk his health Major defect : use of product is affected for handling Minor defects : use of product is not affected for handling Appendix A1: Workmanship Defects Defects Major Minor Critical 110 Collar/Neck opening 111 Collar and collar stand unequal/ asymmetric • • 112 Workmanship of collar is unclean ( puckering, seams, thread ends, twisting) • • 113 Over length of upper and under collar • • 114 Width of collar does not cover collar stand ( based on zone) • • 115 Neck opening ( specially V-neck) is asymmetric less/ strong • • 120 Closing 121 Puckering/pleats at zipper (based on zone) • • 122 Puckering/ pleats at nail heads, snap buttons, buttons, button holes, occurrence, less/ strong • • Defects Major Minor Critical 123 Nail heads, snap buttons, buttons, button holes, hook and eyes not secured well • 124 Missing nail heads, snap buttons, buttons, hook and eyes • 125 Damaged zippers, nail heads, snap buttons, hook and eyes, buttons • 126 Button bar is not according to reference sample • 130 Button and button hole placket 132 Button hole placket is smaller than button placket • 133 Incorrect placing of buttons and button holes • 134 Damaged button holes • 135 Button hole is not secured well • 136 Button hole is too small/ too large • 137 Unclean workmanship of button hole • 138 Missing counter button/ back button • 140 Pockets 141 Bar tack is not secured well • 142 Pockets unequal ( Based on Zone) • • Defects Major Minor Critical 143 Pocket facing is visible from outside, over-length at pocketing lining Less/ strong • • 144 Missing over edging at pocket pouch • 145 Missing pocket pouch • 150 Waistband 151 Uneven width of waistband ( excluding shaped waistband) Less / strong • • 152 Twisted and skewed waistband less/ strong • • 153 Ends of waistband are not on top of each other • 154 Missing fixing points in case of elastic waistband (at min. 2 points) • 160 Belt Loops 161 Different length, width and position of belt loops • 162 Missing bar tack at belt loops • 163 Missing belt loops partial • 170 Over edging 171 Damaged over edging • Defects Major Minor Critical 172 Over edging not secured well • 173 Unclean over edging, incorrect thread tension • 174 Marks from feed dog • 180 Lining 181 Lining is too long and partial visible from outside less / strong • 182 Lining is too short • 190 Others 191 Color shading within one garment according to AATCC Gary Scale • 192 Detached accessories less / strong • • 193 Sharp edges at accessories ( risk of injury) • • 194 Twisting at legs / sleeves • 195 Damaged interlining • 196 Interlining is not enough fixed • 197 Twisted interlining ( i.e. at embroideries) • Appendix A2 Measurements Defects Description of failure/ defects Major Minor Critical 201 Unequal length of shoulder seams, sleeves side seams at leg less / strong • • 202 Unequal distances of pockets, labels etc. less / strong • • Appendix A3 Material Defects Description of failure/ Defects Major Minor Critical 301 noticeable smell, less/ penetraty / extreme ( Harmful) • • • 302 Staining, less strong • • 303 Cuttings ( Based on Zone) • • 304 Cracks ( Based on Zone) • • 305 Holes ( based on zone) • • 306 Growth of mildew • 307 Infestation • • 308 Flying fibers ( size, color, contrast ) • • 309 Snagging, less / strong • • 310 Irregular knitting, less / strong, (based on zone) • • 311 Optical characteristic ( knots, weaving faults), less / strong, ( based on zone) • • Appendix A4 Seam defects Description of failure/ defects Major Minor Critical 401 Seam course, warped seams (Over length, over width), less / strong • • 402 Seam construction • • 403 Stitch length / stitch width • 404 Damaged seams • 405 Seams not secured well • 406 Skipped stitches at seam • 407 Unclean seams and decoration seams • • 408 Damaged decoration seam • 409 Decoration seams not secured well • 410 Skipped stitch at decoration seams • 411 Interrupted seams • 412 Ripped stitches • • 413 Inelastic seams • 414 Incorrect thread tension • Description of failure/ defects Major Minor Critical 415 Blind stitches visible from outside less / strong • • 416 Damaged bar tack • 417 Bartack not secured well • 418 Faryed cutting selvedges • 419 Ladder ( shell fabric – lining) • • 420 Snagged or pulled threads, less / strong, (based on zone) • • 421 Inexact crotch seam of front and back rise • 422 Loose thread ends / thread loops • 423 Missing stitch bonding ( if necessary) ( based on article / zone ) • • 424 Damaged stitch bonding ( if necessary)( based on article / zone) • • 425 Damaged fabric or seams caused by stitches or feed dog, less / strong) • • Appendix A5 Defects of Optical characteristic Description of failure/ defects Major Minor Critical 501 Shine • 502 Pleats effected by ironing, marks, pressing marks • 503 Marks effected by transport ( clips) • Appendix A6 Special item Defects Description of failure/ defects Major Minor Critical 601 Stones in pocket of the jeans • 602 Sewing needles/ nails ( risk of injury) • 603 Rusty pins ( risk of injury) • 604 Pins too thick, less / strong • • 605 Fabric damage by application of plastic strings ( based on zone) • • Appendix A7 Position of defects Description of failure/ defects Major Minor Critical 701 Position A • 702 Position B • Appendix B Testing Procedures Procedure Time of inspection How to proceed Testing issue Issue received Size sets before production starts Trendz sends smallest and biggest size of each style to Buyer in order to check of measurement and fitting of size set samples. If necessary: change of grading/measurement chart. correct fitting Size set samples to Buyer PP-Sample before production starts Trendz sends 2 PP-samples of each style to buyer as reference sample. Workmanship styling 2 pcs PP-samples each style Pre-Production Check (PPC) before production starts Third party testing company picks all used raw materials (fabrics/ accessories) on site certification/use of c-mark-label chemical/physical core requirements Test report to buyer During Production Check (DUPRO) during production (approximate 15-25% of garments are produced) Sampling, inspection according to AQL 2.5/4.0 testing institute picks 3 cartons (1 ctn. For buyer, 2 for testing institute) use of c-mark-label chemical/physical requirements workmanship packing functionality labeling Test report to buyer Final Random Inspection (FRI) production finished (90% of garments are Produced) Inspection of the whole production according to AQL (Partial shipments are possible). Testing institute picks 1 carton each partial shipment to send to Buyer. Workmanship, packing, functionality, Labeling test report to buyer and Trendz result PASS/FAIL of article.